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Mar 19

Variable Dent Challenge – Ruffled Scarf

Ruffled Scarf – Designed and Woven By Jane Patrick

Jane Patrick modeling her ruffled scarf

This silk and wool scarf was inspired by one Stephanie Flynn Sokolov designed for our Woven Scarves book (Interweave Press, 2014). For this earthy interpretation, I offset the wool stripe for an asymmetrical look. The 8 dent section allows for extra space for the wool to felt.

Section placement:

12, 12, 8, 12.

Reed set-up

Reed set-up


Habu #N-85 2/17 Tsumugi, color 13 (485 yards needed), Mountain Colors Winter Lace (50%wool/50%silk) in Wild Raspberry (54 yards needed) and Emma’s Creations Crystal in color 8 (18 yards needed). 3 x 3x  #N-853* 121 501 3 83Crystal 1     1    6M color    18     18 Total warp ends107*begin in a hole

Total number of warp ends:


Warp length:

3 yd which allows 24” for take-up and loom waste.

Width in reed:

9 ¾”


12 and 8. There are three 12-dent sections and one 8-dent section.


Use 2/17 Tsumugi, color 13, throughout.


12 (measured off tension)

Cricket on the Cricket Stand

Cricket on the Cricket Stand


Begin with hemstitching (3 warps over 2 wefts) and weave a balanced fabric using an even beat. Advancing the warp often will help maintain super straight selvedges. End with hemstitching as you began.

Detail of the woven fabric for ruffled scarf

Detail of the woven fabric

Scarf before felting

Scarf before felting


The magic happens in the finishing process. I first washed the fabric in the sink in hot water and Dawn detergent. To felt the center stripe, I laid the scarf on a washboard in the sink and vigorously rubbed the wool stripe section by section the entire length of the scarf until the wool was sufficiently felted to ruffle the fabric. This is an excellent technique to use because you have a lot of control over the felting process. When I was pleased with the felting, I rinsed the scarf in cool water and laid it flat to dry. When dry, I trimmed the fringe to ¼”.

Yarns with the finished  scarf

Yarns with the finished  scarf

Wear as a scarf or attach closures to join the two halves at the bottom edge to form a ruffled collar.

Finished size after weaving: 9” x 64”.Finished size after finishing: 7” x 40”.